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a sporadic nature diary and other jottings from the guides on the strait of gibraltar

23rd August - The Wind Changes Direction at Last - Stephen Daly writes

I had a tour with seven lovely Spanish birders from the Seville area today, and it was such a relief that the Levante had stopped. Replacing it was a mild north-east wind that kept on sending waves of superb birds. It wasn't only raptors today but we also saw Kingfishers, Golden Oriole, Northern Wheatear, Glossy Ibis's, Cetti's Warblers, Nightingale, Woodchat Shrikes, Spanish Sparrows - literally in their thousands, Green Sandpipers, Tawny Pipits and much more.

On the raptor migration we witnessed hundreds of Honey Buzzards, four Bonelli's Eagles, a single Long-legged Buzzard, a sub-adult Egyptian Vulture, two Black-shouldered Kites, five Montagu's and a lone Hen Harrier. Three Marsh Harriers were also seen as were Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel and tens of Lesser Kestrels out on open land. Short-toed Eagles seemed to pop up everywhere and we also saw five Booted Eagles. Griffon Vultures passed overhead and two Alpine Swifts whizzed effortlessly past them.

Like yesterday we had the usual array of smaller passerines like the lovely Spanish Sparrows feeding on sunflower heads. Turtle Doves kept them company and Bee-eaters were overhead in their hundreds.

White  Storks sat around in their hundreds and thousands seemed to be in huge kettles at varying altitudes, everywhere you looked. Wonderful - this sort of stuff just makes your heart sing. I wonder what tomorrow will bring.

22nd August -  Just Birds Galore.....  Stephen Daly writes

The wind was screaming in from the east and still the Honey Buzzards came across high in the sky for the second day, wave after wave. I must have seen four-hundred Honey's passing me in all shades and patterns of brown. No sign of Stephen K's Spanish Imperial Eagle from yesterday but two adult Bonelli's a Peregrine and a Sparrowhawk were seen. Forty Glossy Ibis, Two Juv. Black Storks were also seen near La Janda's rice and cotton fields and all the time thousands of White Storks were on the ground in the rice fields. Hoopoes were in abundance and an immature Egyptian Vulture passed at speed, quite high up.

I took a drive around the Alcala area hoping to spot any larger eagles. There were tens of Short-toed Eagles moving with the smaller Booted Eagles moving south. The bonus were two Ospreys flying over the Pressa de Barbate, fighting against the strong wind. One of the birds was fitted with a radio transmitter.

21nd August - Things Are Starting To Hot Up! - Stephen Knapp writes

The Levante was blowing hard from the Mediterranean all day but the birds just kept on coming. Raptors seemed to be the order of the day at the start of what is set to be a record migration along the Strait of Gibraltar. In La Janda an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle was sitting in a bare stubble field. On flying off the magnificent creature put on a stunning aerial display. Black-shouldered Kites were next on the list with four birds showing in the distance and another two perched low in bushes avoiding the wind. Honey Buzzards flew in squadrons high above and a Bonelli's Eagle came over with two Common Buzzards. Montagu's harriers were seen flying low across the rice fields with a pair of Marsh harriers quartering the margins.The constant call of Bee-eaters kept us company all day and Turtle doves moved along the shrub lined tracks.

20th August - Godwit Days - A Californian Story - Stephen Daly writes

Rob Hewitt had booked two days with me from his base in Humbolt County in northern California. We had two splendid days out with some great birding and wildlife spotting on the Strait of Gibraltar. Let me tell you a little about Rob who is an extremely likeable and energetic man. Originally from the UK, he trained as a biologist and now runs his own company as an environmental and ecology consultant.

Godwit Days is the annual spring birding festival that takes place in Arcata, Humbolt county, where Rob and his family live and work. The festival has been running for ten years now and has is firmly established in the Californian birding calendar. The festival is based around the annual spring migration that takes place along the Pacific coast. Spring bird Migration is the very essence of the festival anyone at all with an interest in wildlife is encouraged to take part and taking part in trips to various sites throughout the county. There is a diary of different events throughout the weekend and plenty of choice of species to see. It's all very much a festival where you participate in the events. Like the Rutland bird fair in the UK, there are also the usual static stands that host lectures and workshops including various companies that offer optics to birding and wildlife holidays with tour companies.

Our two days birding went well with perfect weather and plenty to choose from. The highlights and "lifers" for Rob were a European Roller and Hoopoes at La Janda, with Purple Herons, Zitting Cisticolas, Spanish Sparrows, Spectacled and Bonelli's Warblers and two unexpected Wood Warblers! A pair of Black-shouldered Kites and a Bonell's Eagle put on displays as well as the other "usual suspects" of various raptors which included Marsh Harriers, Lesser and Common Kestrels, Short-toed and Booted Eagles. We watched Black-eared Wheatears, Tawny Pipits and Rufous Bush Robins as well as Little Owls and literally thousands of White Storks spiraling on massive thermals as tens of Griffon Vultures looked for carrion. Sardinian Warblers seemed to be "scolding" us from under every bush with Stonechats on posts and fences and a Whinchat and two Blue Rock Thrushes turned up on the mountainside to stare back at us. Bee-eaters, Turtle Doves and Woodchat Shrikes had kept us company on both days and all three species presence impart that summer feeling in Spain.

It's always inspiring to hear other peoples stories connected with working with people and the environment and Rob was a natural story teller and great fun to be with. Two easy days passed quickly and I'm sure he had enjoyed himself as much as I did.

16thAugust - We Can't Have Rain Like This in August! - Stephen Daly writes

After a scorching July in the UK and the rest of northern Europe the temperatures seemed to dip rather quickly and folks were getting their fleeces and pullovers back out of their cupboards. Funny weather all round. We had an absolute deluge of rain today. It lasted most of the late morning an early afternoon causing chaos to roads, town and villages throughout southern Andalucia. The only creatures that seemed to move about were the Tree-Frogs in our garden! The next days kicked back to with breezes from the S Atlantic and temperatures around 25oC. Just the way I like it!

14th August - Walking on the Strait across the lower Sierras - Stephen Daly writes

Walking can be quite tough in the searing temperatures in most Mediterranean countries and southern Andalucia is no exception in August. Luckily, the Atlantic breezes had been blowing steadily day and night for the past week keeping the temperatures at an even 25oC during daylight hours. Terry and Mary Cavanagh from Dublin wanted to start a days walking tour early but I told them that first light is around 0730 hrs at this time of the year down this way. We settled for 0800 hrs and took the short drive along to the town of Facinas to take the woodland trail to the top of the ridge at the Sierra de Salaviciosa to the peak called Orgaros near the finca of El Aquitón. It's a public right of way and old drovers road that cuts over the ridge and down to the coast near Tarifa. To get to the dramatic 650m summit, you have to be prepared for the 10kms hike. If you wish to continue to Torre de la Peña, near the Playa de Los Lances, then it's another 12 kms. Of course you can always turn back at the top and come straight down to your car. That's what we did. Going on would involve getting a taxi or arranging transport at the other end.

The track is in good condition and you can collect fresh water at the lower levels from small wells that are visited daily by the local population, who come to fill their water containers with the sweet mountain drinking water. There are lots of birds to be seen with Firecrests flitting through the trees with Bonelli's Warblers, Cirl Buntings, Woodchat Shrikes, Crested and Long-tailed Tits, Spotted Flycatchers, Serins, Goldfinches, Greenfinches and Short-toed Treecreepers. Overhead squadrons of Griffon Vultures passed silently by and a bonus of two immature Egyptian Vultures a Merlin and a Booted Eagle added to the tally.

This part of the sierra is protected under the umbrella of the Parques Naturales (natural parks) and new laws with good signposts have recently banned quads, motorcycles and 4x4's from the area. There are plenty of shaded areas to stop for a rest and there are a good number of pines that shade the entire track in the earlier part of the day. Walking steadily and gaining height, you have the most wondrous views behind to the plain of La Janda, and the Pueblos Blancos of Vejer de la Frontera, Benalup and Medina Sidonia. Before long the panorama increase all around you and you can look along to the Sierra del Bartolomé and the Sierra de la Plata.

Short-toed Eagles came and went, one passing ridiculously close that even after lugging my Canon camera and long lens up the mountain, the bird was just too close! We saw a Sparrowhawk, Rock Buntings, Blue Rock Thrushes, Black-eared Wheatears and an Ortolan Bunting as we came close to the fire lookout. Bee-eaters were migrating directly over our heads and we watched them crossing the Strait without a care in the world.

Terry managed to get seven "lifers" and both were extremely happy with the tally of lizards, insects and plants as well as all the migrating and resident birds.

Looking down from the peak at Orgaros to Morocco across the Strait and the Fire Lookout point at 650m high

We rested and ate some food beside the brick building that offers shelter to the lone fireguard that keeps lookout in the summer and admired the magnificent views down the coast to Tarifa. The weather couldn't have been better with unparalleled views into the Riff mountains of Morocco and the busy port of Tanger lit up for all to see with its minarets glistening in the August sun. Ferries and tankers steamed up the Strait into the Mediterranean and massive container ships, larger than Tarifa Island slipped out into the Atlantic, destination unknown.

12th August - Bonelli's Warblers, Rollers and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse - Stephen Daly writes

Amongst all the early raptor migrant movement, there is still the daily business of getting on with life as far as the other passerines are concerned. The Black Kites that seem never ending in their movement and the huge "kettles" of White Storks that reach hundreds of thousands in numbers this last few weeks, continue to pass over our house and all along the Strait of Gibraltar. Life goes on for the summer migrants that have been here since spring, while all around them other species come into their areas to feed as they travel south and on to Africa. For example the Bonelli's Warblers, Western Orphean Warblers and Spectacled Warblers are still present although the Melodious Warblers and Great Reed Warblers seem to have all but left. Of course we do get "replacement" birds of the same species filling the gaps left by local birds and quite often as with the Bonelli's Warbler what appears to be a seemingly increase in population. The only way to gauge the whole process is to try and know day by day what subtle changes occur during the peak migrations. 

The European Roller is one of those birds that does migrate fairly early back to Africa. They are never easy to spot as they usually fly low and fast following the contours of the valleys and hopping fences at a fair speed. I have been lucky enough to have seen two this week with the volunteers at the Colectivo Ornitológico Cigüeña Negra, (which is the Black Stork and raptor Migration Survey) seeing several birds this week too.

A flock of fifteen Pin-tailed Sandgrouse have been seen in Little Bustard country up near Benalup on private land. They have been seen or heard this week on most days and seem to be quite happy on the fringes of the stubble fields and rough pasture.

 

8th August - Rafts of Black Kites and kettles White Storks  - Stephen Daly writes

For the last week or so the numbers of White Storks and Black Kites have ben increasing on the Strait of Gibraltar. On Sunday I counted four large "kettles" of White Storks spiraling high on warm thermals near to Tarifa. There were in excess of two thousand birds.Six or seven groups of Black Kites flapped and soared along the rocky coastline between Tarifa and Algeciras and they totaled seven hundred with a couple of Black storks and a Roller making a show. Twelve Short-toed Eagles soared around the migration observation point at Algarroba and five Booted Eagles and eighty Griffon Vultures flew back and forth along the coastline.

White Storks thermalling on the edge of the Strait

In my Garden our young  and quite fearless Nightingale has finally made his way south. It came every morning to the front terrace looking at itself in the glass door. Spotted Flycatchers have been coming and going all week making contact calls at all hours of the day. Bee-eaters have also been crossing the Strait in large numbers with hundreds of them calling as they flew over our house. Red-rumped Swallows have been sitting on our telephone wire most mornings, preening and resting before crossing to Africa. Already thousands of Barn Swallows, Sand and House Martins, Pallid and Common Swifts have left Europe.

A few Bonell's Eagles are still in La Janda and a female Hen Harrier appeared the other day. Glossy Ibis, Purple Herons, Squacco Herons, Little Bitterns, Eurasian Spoonbills, seven Northern Bald Ibis and what was quite strange to see was a group of fifteen Greater Flamingoes. There were also lots of Collared Pratincoles, Green Sandpipers, Marsh Harriers, Booted Eagles, Lesser Kestrels, Montagu's Harriers, Short-toed Eagles  and a few Juv. Black Storks have been seen in or around La Janda, not to mention the thousands of White Storks, Black Kites and Hirundines and Swifts passing through. Two 2nd summer Audouin's Gulls were also seen in the rice fields of La Janda hunting crayfish.

Female lesser Kestrel

6thAugust - Some Reptiles of Andalucia - Stephen Daly Writes

As the summer starts once again with temperatures hovering in the low 30’s, and the wonderful spring flowers dry out and turn brown, the reptile life in Cadiz province is easier to spot. We have a great selection of snakes, lizards and some turtles.  Some of the larger snakes, such as the Montpellier, which can grow to over two metres in length, can be seen sunning themselves and travelling across land to other areas. Sadly, they like warm tarmac roads, and are frequent road-kill in Cadiz province.  Like all reptiles, they are cold blooded and constantly move in summer from cool shade to sunny spots to heat back up again. These beautiful reptiles, which come in a variety of browns and greens, can be found throughout most Mediterranean countries and islands. They usually disappear quickly on detecting vibrations from people walking nearby.

(Mediterranean) Chameleon at El Palmar, Cadiz.   Photo Stephen Knapp

Both Stephen Knapp and myself have managed to get good views of Chameleons over the years, with these stunning creatures being found on the southern coast. The coastal scrub around the dune areas, small woodlands with heath and also in some fruit groves further inland are all good places to see these lovely reptiles. Chameleons are pretty much solitary creatures and are considered very shy by nature, shunning any high activity levels in their environments. They move slowly and crossing roads are one of the most dangerous activities for them. They can change colour pretty quickly and their eyes move independently.

Ocellated Lizard

The large, colourful Ocellated or Eyed Lizards are fairly common and really active in the early summer. These large, yellow-green lizards that have blue markings, are good prey for the Short-toed Eagles that are on patrol. The Short-toed Eagle is a specialist reptile hunter, arriving from Africa in spring, feeding on most snakes and lizards.

2nd August - The Autumn Migration - Stephen Daly writes

The beginning of August sees an increase in bird activity here in the south, with thousands of White storks massing in areas such as La Janda, between Benalup and Facinas. These birds are becoming increasingly restless, and it’s the abundant White stork that is one of the first species to migrate south to Africa. Other species follow in the coming months, with birds of prey or raptors, as they are collectively called, being the most spectacular and certainly sought after birds to watch by birders worldwide.

The Strait of Gibraltar has long been recognised as of paramount importance for migrating birds of prey. The narrow stretch of water between the high peaks of Southern Spain and North Africa provides the shortest crossing over the Mediterranean and soaring birds flock here in their thousands.  Waiting for the right winds, parties of Black Kites begin to gain height in search of the morning's first thermals over the southern Spanish sierras. Anticipation grows as the first dots appear in the distance,gradually metamorphosing into an assortment of different shapes and sizes,now discernible as birds of prey. Soon they are with us - some so close at times we can even see the expression on their faces!

Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Bonelli's, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Marsh and Montagu's Harriers, Honey Buzzards and Sparrowhawks, all gathering together in readiness for the crossing to Morocco. With them come clouds of White Storks and a sprinkling of scarcer Black Storks, too.

A Bonell's Eagle over La Janda                                                   A young Bee-eater

Each day during the southern migration is different as the appearance of raptors depends very much on the prevailing winds. On days when conditions are not right, however, there is much to see elsewhere in Cadiz province exploring the coast, wild sierras and lakes of this beautiful part of Andalucia.

The start of the Spanish side of the Strait of Gibraltar which runs from Cape Trafalgar down to Tarifa. This photograph shows the towns of Zahara de los Atunes in the foreground and Barbate in the distance

As well as classic Mediterranean species such as Black-winged Stilt, Audouin's Gull, Hoopoe and Sardinian Warbler, you have chances to seek some of the region's more localised specialties, including the elusive Little Bustard, White-headed Duck, not forgetting the globally rare Northern Bald Ibis and the scarce Crested Coot.

There is a wealth of wildlife to enjoy in this quiet corner of Spain and there are bound to be many treats in store. This tour, however, is aimed at the exciting movement of raptors through the region and it is this spectacle that will be our main focus.

 

 

 

 

Juv. Black Stork

 

 

Osprey over the Barbate reservoir

 

 

Spanish Imperial Eagle

 

 

Honey Buzzard

 

 

Godwit Days this side of "the pond" with

a Bar-tailed example

 

 

Roller

 

 

One of the many Black shouldered Kite

on the Strait of Gibraltar

 

 

A Spotted Flycatcher

 

 

Iberian Tree Frog

 

 

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse in Cadiz province

 

 

Black Kites start migrating en masse

south in August

 

 

Collared Pratincole at Barbate Marismas

 

 

Young Ocellated Lizard

 

 

Crayfish of La Janda

 

 

Greater Flamingos at Barbate estuary

 

 

Spanish Marbled White butterfly

 

 

Large Psammodromus (Lizard)

 

 

A Booted Eagle

 

 

A Two-tailed Pasha butterfly

 

 

A Short-toed Eagle

 

 

Audouin's Gulls

 

 

Booted Eagle -showing us his "boots"!

 

 

An immature Dotterel at Barbate on

migration last Sept.

 

 

The Male Black-eared Wheatears have

lost their black throat patch by late August.

This photo was taken in June.

 

 

Ocellated Lizard profile

 

 

Woodchat Shrike

 

 

Little Egret

 

 

A female Montagu's Harrier

 

 

 A Juvenile Black-shouldered Kite