In Search of Moroccan Lanner Falcons

With Stephen Daly (Andalucian Guides) and

Gerhard Geldenhuys (Vivid Image Productions, South Africa)

This was a 4 day trip across from our base near Barbate, Cadiz province in Andalucia. We wanted to study the striking Moroccan race of Lanner Falcon - Falco erlangeri that can be found on the Atlantic coastal cliffs.

We decided to head south as far as Oued Massa and work back northwards along the coast. There would be a lot more species to see on our journey north, and with a bit of luck we would catch up with the early spring migrants also heading towards Europe.

The twinkling and ever tempting lights of Tanger (Tangiers) can be seen most nights from our local beach. You can see quite clearly the abrupt left turn of the Moroccan coastline at Cape Espartel and it's almost straight line disappearing south west round the headland. This physical natural feature, used visually by migrating birds, has a special danger all of it's own. South-bound birds in Autumn can have serious difficulties if the Levante wind blows hard out of the Mediterranean sea. Tired or weak birds that leave the crossing to Morocco too far west, and start crossing in the Strait near Tarifa are blown further westwards, unable to recover their true direction. Still in sight of land they perish in the Atlantic Ocean. Northbound birds in Springtime face a similar challenge if the strong Levante wind blows.

Day 1.

Leaving Tarifa on the 0900hrs  fast ferry to Tanger (Tangiers), we crossed a calm Strait of Gibraltar in the anticipated time of 35 minutes. Gannet and Mediterranean Shearwater were seen on the crossing as well as hundreds of migrating passerines including Serin, Goldfinch and linnet in the distance at wave height.

On our arrival at the port of Tanger we were immediately immersed into the world of corruption from port officials, Police and Customs officers alike. After being passed from one agency to the other to have our passports stamped and our vehicle importation papers issued - then stamped, we were let on our way. We then headed south through Tanger and the coastal road to Rabat, Morocco's capital. No sooner than we had traveled roughly 35 km's, we were singled out from a long line of slow moving traffic by a Policeman and told we were "speeding". All other local traffic bar us was allowed to continue on their way. We waited a short while as the two motorcycle Policemen sat at a plastic garden table and chairs at the roadside and debated why a Scotsman, living in Spain should have a German driving licence and a business card from a member of the Moroccan Tourist Board. I explained to the officers that I once lived and worked in Germany before moving to Spain in 2001 and that I had many important contacts within the moroccan Tourist Board. They didn't seem impressed and I was ordered back to the car. A Common Bulbul called out from a bush something that only it understands and I expected the worst!                                     

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