So on we go. It's getting dark after the long drive bypassing Casablanca. Back on the péage and we culd drive a bit faster. The police were out in force again although we had no problems heading north.

On and on, passing Rabat, the capital and to our destination at Moulay-Bousselham and the campsite where we could hopefully catch a glimpse of the Marsh Owls.

As luck would have it, we were delayed by a lot of slow moving traffic on the roads leading to the motorway and new we were well behind schedule. It was dark when the gate man at the campsite let us in and we had little chance of seeing the owls next day, which was our last.

Gerhard tries to spot Marsh Owl

We were both very tired and decided to rent a small wooden hut on the campsite. It was deserted and we seemed to be the only clients, a big change from Essaouira. We ate then retired to our beds ready for an early start and a dawn recce of the Merja Zerga Lagoon on the other side of the campsite wall!

The next morning after a hot shower - Oh what luxury! We had breakfast and followed the small track round the back of the campsite to the edge of the Lagoon.We started watching a couple of Marsh Harrier and some Marsh Sandpiper and we bumped into Kahil Fachkhir a local guide. What a stroke of luck as he offered to take us out in a boat with a small outboard, up river and into the lagoon.

(Costs are 100 Diram, about 10 Euros for an hour for an hour for 1-6 people.Tel Khalil on Morocco 063 095 358. He speaks French, English and a bit of German)

Kahlil takes us up river

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